By Laurie Daniel for MercuryNews.comWhen it comes to wine from Argentina, malbec is the undisputed king. But vintners in the South American country grow a wide variety of grapes, from the commonplace -- chardonnay and cabernet sauvignon -- to more specialized varietals, such as torrontes and bonarda.
One winery in Mendoza, Argentina's main wine-producing region, Familia Zuccardi, even grows grapes such as aglianico, tannat and caladoc (a cross between malbec and Grenache). The winery also has found great success with its tempranillo.
Two varieties that deserve a look are torrontes and bonarda. While they're not unique to Argentina, that's the country they're most often connected with.
The typical white grape of Argentina, torrontes has a floral note a little reminiscent of muscatel. That's no coincidence: DNA testing has found torrontes to be a cross between muscatel of Alexandria and criolla chica. At its best, torrontes is fresh and floral, with lively white fruit. But it can also get a little overbearing, taking on a scent that reminds me of heavily perfumed dusting powder or potpourri. Winemakers also have to handle it carefully to avoid a bitter finish in the wine.
The part of Argentina most suited to torrontes is the northern, high-altitude province of Salta, although only a small percentage of the plantings are there. (Labels may say Salta, Cafayate or Calchaqui.) In "Vino Argentino" (Chronicle Books, 240 pp., $27.50), author Laura Catena of Catena Zapata Winery relates what she was told when she asked locals why Salta torrontes is so aromatic: "Everything...Read Full Article
