What is it about Tupungato? A barren, lunar landscape, an hour away from the city and a cooler climate (in fact quite freezing during the winter) – why is Tupungato becoming one of the hottest spots in Mendoza? Well, almost exclusively for the wines. 20 years ago no-one dreamt of planting vines in the colder, high altitude landscape but now some of the region’s best vineyards are producing great wine here. Two vineyards really making their mark on the international market are Finca Sophenia and Jean Bousquet, for their altogether different style Argentine wines.
Finca Sophenia
Born in 1997 by wine fanatic Roberto Luka, Sophenia’s first harvest was in 2002 with Michel Rolland as consultant wine maker. The following year young maverik winemaker Matias Michilini was recruited to the project and together Sophenia has been churning out some award-winning unique wines.
“We want to make Tupungato wines, not trying to follow or copy the style of Argentine wine – but we want to make wines that are unique to our landscape,” says Matias.
He believes that what makes Tupungato wines unique is the fresher mineral flavours that the landscape and weather give the vines. The cooler evenings and warm days, the low risk of disease and infection, and the natural underground water supplies allow the grapes to mature healthily with a steady growth of alcohol and acidity, resulting in good alcohol levels but a balanced, more elegant wine.
Matias describes the four pillars of Sophenia’s wines: the terrior – using the land’s great assets; the vines – nurturing its own vines for 100% quality control; the bodega – onsite and using the latest international technology; and the people – a strong team of wine experts.
“The terrior is the most important thing,” says Matias. And you can see why in the wines. Sophenia’s virile Sauvignon Blanc is much fresher and more minerally than other Argentine Sauvignon Blancs – it has little perfume but is intense and complex (especially the heady Synthesis SB which is so concentrated you could be forgiven for wanting to dilute it), yet they remain fresh and elegant.
The Synthesis Malbec has all the red fruit, spices and giddy violet that you could dream of in the aromas but in your mouth it is surprisingly smooth and subtle – it fills your mouth and certainly lingers but has none of the harsh fruit that you expect from some Argentine Malbecs. This diamond has been polished.
Their top blend has a wicked mix of cassis, spice and fruit of all levels (fresh, mature and compote) but again once it touches your lips the complexity is much more refined. Even the rose is pretty good. There is something quite different going on here.
Jean Bousquet
Further down the dusty road, Jean Bousquet and his family are also reaping the natural rewards of the land. This French winery makes only organic wines, but fortunately this is not to jump on any eco-friendly band wagon in compromise of good wines. But rather going organic for Jean was inextricably linked to the quality of the land – being a natural oasis from disease.
The Uco Valley has relatively little disease. This natural blessing is fiercely protected within the zone – no fresh produce can be brought in from outside the valley, however that doesn’t stop good wine coming out of it. The healthy environment means that vines can be nurtured without the aid of strong chemicals.
“I always say that Jean Bousquet makes great wines… and that they are organic,” says JB consultant and international wine expert Stephen Reiss. “Some companies try to be organic to the detriment of the wine, but that isn’t the case here. You can make fantastic wines that are naturally organic.” Jean bought a plot land here in 1990 and has been making successful organic wines since, now sitting comfortably as the largest producer of organic wine in Argentina, perhaps even South America.
JB wines too reflect the land they are grown on: their small production Sparkling Brut Rose has a burnt amber colour with a dry mineral taste and a light finish; the Malbec Reserva is complex and fruity but with a good balance and a lasting but graceful finish; and the Fortified Malbec is a real show stealer with intense sweet cassis to the tongue and nose while leaving on a spicy note.
Jean recognised something special about the land when he arrived, something worth changing his life for. He sold everything he had in France and moved out to Tupungato to start a vineyard, at first even selling wine from the boot of his car. “He believed that there was something here from the beginning,” Stephen told me (Jean was visiting family in France), “people didn’t believe he could make good wines in such an environment. He has obviously proved them wrong.”
The secret of Tupungato
Clearly Jean Bousquet, Finca Sophenia and other Tupungato vineyards are proving not just Mendoza but a world wide audience wrong. Tupungato wines are unique (especially those of Sophenia and JB). They are quite unlike many Argentine wines: no big, overbearing flavours, and nothing too floral or perfumed.
These wines are subtle, elegant and Tupungato is certainly making waves the other side of the North Atlantic. The more European and North American tastes perhaps push them out of the saturated domestic market but this works to their advantage in some of the tougher international markets including northern Europe and the UK.
“I believe this terrior is going to be famous for its quality wine,” finishes Matias. And sipping on my incredible Sauvignon Blanc, I can’t help but be convinced myself.
For more information on Finca Sophenia visit www.sophenia.com.ar
For more information or to visit Jean Bousquet’s vineyard visit www.jeanbousquet.com
The Mendoza Sun
Photos courtesy of Jean Bousquet and Sophenia
Amanda Barnes is a freelance writer currently living in Mendoza. For more information, visit www.amandabarnes.co.uk or click here to see her profile.
