Sometimes it is evident, sometimes it is covert, sometimes we detect it with ease, sometimes we let it pass us by until it is almost over, but however it comes, change is always with us in the world of wine. Last July 18 in this column I mentioned a tendency affecting the US market wherein — according to a report released by the US Customs service — the US wine consumer was staging a sort of consumer revolt against the (until now) dictatorship which has been applied by winemakers on consumer tastes. From now on (say the consumers) we want wine made as we want it, not as wine experts tell us it should be. This is a serious situation, affecting, as it does, matters of taste, technique and finance. According to the report, this trend has caused the wine distribution business to reduce from around 10,000 to just under 1,000.
All this relates to the US (although Europe seems to be falling under the same mantle) but we cannot ignore that Argentina is an important member of the wine elite, and open to all the changes and fresh trends that are popping up in most of our wineries. To be able to sort of condense the latest events into an easy to understand compact I intend today to refer to a figure who is largely unknown outside professional local circles, but who has, in more ways than one, laid the foundations to what today can be described as a vigorous, modern, highly respected Argentine wine industry.
Paul Hobbs is a modest, retiring, intensly dedicated winemaker who is widely reputed in California for his outstanding Chardonnays but who, in Argentina, switched colours and is as deeply red as that last rose of summer. Paul was brought to Argentina as an adviser by Nicolás Catena in 1988, to tidy up and give purpose to the vast Catena wine operations, and after nine years he decided that the objective had been achieved. A great deal of the Catena predominance abroad — the US especially — can be traced to Paul’s work. However, Paul was not interested in cutting off his contacts with this country, which he had come to respect and understand probably as much or more than any of our local gurus. The answer was to find some sort of local connection that would keep him around. A fortunate combination of romantic ties and professional contacts enabled Paul to set up a partnership with Luis and Andrea Barraud, from which sprang Viña Cobos in 1998.
The first vintage — 1999 — turned out to be a total disaster —’99 was one of the worst harvests in memory — and it was in 1999 that the first saleable wine was made, followed by the 2000. In 2001 near disaster was just averted, but after that all factors started to fall into place and Viña Cobos occupied a leading and prestigious role in our local and export marketplace (See below). But this was not enough for Paul. That zeal for perfection which bubbled below the surface of his disarmingly tranquil and innocent face cannot be kept under wraps. Paul began to increase his second role, that of itinerant advisor to wineries, a profession that many celebrated names have devoted more and more of their time. (A good local example, who has made his name a byword in recent years, is that of Frenchman Michel Rolland, whose influence can be found from Bordeaux to Bangkok, and Mendoza to Mali — or so it would seem). What Paul Hobbs has done with the wines of 25 de Mayo.
(La Pampa) for example clearly illustrates his influence
This would seem to be quite enough to fill anybody’s cup of tea (or glass of wine), but Paul has other ideas. He is now fully devoted to proving that Argentine Cabernet Sauvignon.
Can be as good as — or even better — that the best Cabs known worldwide. (We are talking of Bordeaux here, don’t forget). To many old timers — and those who believe that anybody who wears a feather in his (her) hair is automatically discarded — this is sacrilege, but Paul already has a Cabernet that has obtained 100 Parker points. This is a Cobos 2002 Cabernet that boasts a first for South America. Indeed, worldwide, 100 points have only been awarded in Bordeaux and the Napa Valley. Whatever your opinion may be regarding the Parker system of points, it must be accepted that an award at this level — and coming from such an origin — must be given the highest respect. In the Malbec line of varietals Paul has managed to obtain a score of 99, which is not bad, either!
A bare couple of weeks ago I was present at a vertical wine tasting of the nine Malbec wines that Viña Cobos has in bottle at present. (According to Paul the 2010 vintage promises to be as outstanding as the 2006, which today is admitted to be the best of the present century). While all nine wines were highly drinkable, in my opinion I went particularly for the Cobos Malbec 2002, the first “serious” wine after the less attractive ‘99 and the ‘00 The 2003 was my “roast beef wine”, the slight trace of tannin in the aftertaste giving this Malbec a good grip on a well prepared roast. The ‘05 offered to strongest aroma of all, with a lot of flower. Great with desserts, I would think, of soft, creamy cheese. And then came the 2006. Even without knowing beforehand that it came with a Parker 99 point rating, I would have goine crazy over this one, even though the ‘07 that followed was strong enough to stand up and cry out, “I’m here, too!” We stopped at the ‘08 which was probably just in time for some of those prese
nt.
The Cobos line of wines come in three levels: Felinos, Bramare and Viña Cobos. All have a touch of French oak and all are in the 14.5% alcoholic range, but both alcohol and oak have been handled in such a manner that they scarcely make their presence known. But the saga of Paul Hobbs does not end here, Next week we will get a glimpse of his reasons for choosing our Cabernet Sauvignon wines to fill stellar roles on the world stage, and also the role of itinerant winemakers and how Paul Hobbs fits in here, too.
Written by By Dereck Foster for The Buenos Aires Herald
Source: http://www.buenosairesherald.com/BreakingNews/View/41648
