O Fournier is probably one of the most architecturally famous, and strangest looking, bodegas in the world. The curved winery is certainly odd but also irresistibly appealing in a sexy sort of Dutch way. As you approach the bodega stranded in the middle of a moonscape in the Uco Valley it begs you to ask: Is it a bird? Is it a plane? Is it a space station?
Fortunately none of the above, it is a highly functional and stylized winery, the design of which all starts to make sense when you enter the bodega. Using the natural gift of gravity to its advantage, the winery works on three levels using each one for the different wine making stages.
On the top floor, the wine starts its voyage entering as grapes to be pressed and filtered down to the second level. The enologists join the grapes on this top level and enjoy the best view in the house, with their laboratories over-looking the stunning mountains, vineyard and the endless sky.
Moving down to the second level – fermentation. Amongst the labyrinth of steel and wooden pillars the wine is fermented in three ways: in modern stainless steel tanks, in concrete vats and in huge oak casks (O Fournier is one of the only Argentine vineyards to ferment its wine in oak).
And finally it makes its way to the cellar. A huge underground network is home to hundreds of barrels of wine, taking their time to age to perfect maturation. This is an atmospheric place with the barrels and a changing art exhibition lit up by a strip skylight to represent the Southern Cross constellation.
The cellar links you through to the restaurant – the ‘piece de resistance’. Utilizing the surrounding natural beauty to the full, the small minimalist restaurant has floor to ceiling windows which emerge you in the beautiful landscape – the majestic Andes mountains and bright skies calmly reflected by a still, silver lake.
“I have an easy job,” says Executive Chef Nadia Heron modestly, “nobody concentrates on the food with views like this!” Don’t believe her. Many people come to O Fournier just for the food and the stunning wines and location are a mere bonus.
Spaniard Nadia brought her Mediterranean influences with her when she started the restaurant, Urban, in 2006 and has kept clean, fresh flavors a strong part of its identity. Her inspiration comes from all over the world though and she tries to incorporate styles from different corners of the globe while focusing on innovative and creative dishes, which still embrace the natural properties of the ingredients and respect the matching O Fournier wines.
“Even though we are in Argentina, I try to keep my menu practically vegetarian!” she said. “There is so much flavor in the beautiful fruits and vegetables here and we try to inspire our visitors to try something different in a way they may not have before.”
The six course tasting menu changes daily but the philosophy remains the same – innovation, innovation and innovation.
The first appetizer I tried reflected this playful creativity. A soft quenelle of potato and lemon served with pickled vegetables was a fresh and light start that played with the textures of the smooth puree and tiny vegetable cubes and delicately reflected the citrus nature of the accompanying Sauvignon Blanc.
This was followed by another appetizer, a cheese crisp drizzled with a sweet Torrontés sauce and matched with an aromatic Tempranillo – a slightly strange concept but a nice experience all the same. The starter of a creamy and thick vichyssoise made a gorgeous combination with the complex and dry B Crux blend.
For the main course we had our first, and only, bit of meat – a delicious steak with blue cheese stuffed onions and a rich Portobello mushroom risotto encased in a light and crispy focaccia ring. Delightful especially with the premium line A Crux blend.
Dessert comprised two courses – a well needed refresher in the form of a sweet and boozy Torrontés sorbet, followed by a philo pastry tower injected with light dulce de leche cream and delicately crowned with a bitter caramel nest. Gorgeous.
A good reputation can be hard to uphold, but Urban’s dedication to reinvention and creativity while maintaining memorable and fresh flavors is the key to its continued success. O Fournier certainly didn’t disappoint and the outstanding architecture, landscape and cuisine give you quite an otherworldly experience.
The Mendoza Sun, written by Amanda Barnes (Contributing Author), photos by Amanda Barnes, published May 19, 2010.
Amanda Barnes is a freelance writer currently living in Mendoza. For more information, visit www.amandabarnes.co.uk or click here to see her profile.
